Tuesday, April 2, 2013

March 15-20: East to HCR


After saying goodbye to my friends A&M after our great climbing trip in Joshua Tree, I got back on the road for three long days of driving to meet my friends D&S for a last-minute climbing trip to Horseshoe Canyon Ranch. Fifteen hundred miles is a long way, but getting to climb with friends at the end of it is worth it.

The highlight of Friday’s drive was the sopapilla gifted to me by a couple at dinner. Mmmm, although I guess that’s more of a highlight of dinner than one of driving. I made it to New Mexico before calling it an evening.
Cool old sign


Saturday’s drive was long, as I decided to go all the way to Oklahoma City, where I knew I could find a Buffalo Wild Wings to watch UFC 158, with the hopes that I could enjoy some victory chocolate cake when GSP defeated Diaz. (For the record, I was eating the cake regardless of the outcome of the fight, but preferred it to be victory, not drowning my sorrows, cake.) By the time I got to the restaurant, there were no seats available and it was likely there wouldn’t be any until after the fight. A couple young boys next to me worked their own MMA moves until their dad broke it up with a well-executed time out, which was unfortunate, because their thirty-second fight had more action in than fifteen minutes of Ricci-Fletcher.

After a few more fights, including one between two people at the restaurant, it was time for the fight! Since M couldn’t join me in person this time, I texted her round summaries, which were all good news, as GSP won all five rounds. GSP! The place emptied out and I could finally eat, wolfing down a half-dozen hot wings before enjoying victory chocolate cake a la mode. Mmmm.

On Sunday morning, I got back on the road for the last bit of the drive after fueling up with a nice breakfast at Waffle House. I actually was going to switch it up and go to the IHOP, but it was too packed. Maybe some other time. Had to stop a couple of times to take pictures of awesome signs, but I eventually made it through the fog and rain to D&S’s cabin at HCR. It was great to know I’d be staying in one place for a few days with friends.

More cool signs


Although the forecast wasn’t ideal for Monday (rain overnight with 30% chance of showers during the day, highs in the low 40’s), we headed to the North Forty area to see just how wet the rock was. Turns out while some routes were indeed wet, plenty more were not, and we got up seven routes, five of which I led. I was particularly stoked to have led the deceptively pumpy African Herbman. There were quite a few people climbing, but it appeared we were the only climbers not on spring break. Overheard a couple of interesting stories. Story 1 - the guy who claimed he had accidentally peed on one of the retired ranch dogs earlier in the day discovered that the dog was now napping on his gear bag. His friends thought he was getting what he deserved. Story 2 – On a previous climbing trip, this group found a snake and brought it into their car. Once they got to the crag, the left the snake in the car. The car got hot and the snake went into the steering column to get some shade, but it wasn’t cool enough and the snake died. The car stunk of dead snake for some time. After all that climbing and listening to stories made us quite hungry, and we wasted no time making dinner once we got back to the cabin – beef tacos with Sriracha sauce, mmmm!

Putting up Paul's Redemption

The weather was gorgeous on Tuesday, sunny with highs in the 50’s. We went to some areas that were new to me, Cliffs of Insanity and the Far East.  We warmed up with a couple of easy routes then moved over to Swamp Rat, a fun climb with awesome views of the ranch. Next up was the long 14 bolt Orange Crush at the edge of the property line. (Remember to give the barbed wire fence some distance. Ouch!) We got up two more routes before calling it a day and heading into town for dinner. Unfortunately, we were too late to hit the Ozark Café and most other places, so we ended up at Subway. I’ll trade a long day of climbing for an OK dinner.

D on Swamp Rat

The temps dropped on Wednesday and the sun went away, but no rain showed up, so we were set for another day of climbing. We didn’t do as many climbs as we had the previous two days, but got on harder ones. I flashed my first 5.10a outside, Gimp and Wheezer. Yes! The 5.10b, Hassenpfeffer, we got on next stepped t up quite a bit, and we all spent significant time getting up it. (Nice lead by S!) We ended with Hickadelic Jazzgrass and I managed to keep my distance from the barbed wire fence. We made it into town early enough for dinner at the Ozark Café Mmm. I had the flamethrower burger, which did not disappoint in the heat department; I had to get a scoop of ice cream for dessert to put out the flames!
The rock was cold on Wednesday. Yay for no hands rests!
We hit the Ozark Café again for breakfast (chocolate gravy, mmmm) before our long drives to Chicago and Louisville. I’m already looking forward to my next climbing trip with D&S!

Got to wear that hat I bought in J-Tree!
more pix

The Climbs

Monday (North Forty)
Perfect Hair Forever 5.7 Lead
Paul’s Redemption 5.7 Lead
Lion Tamer 5.9- Lead
Frankenberry 5.9+ TR
African Herbman 5.8 Lead (no stick clip!)
Stiff-Neked Fools 5.8+ Lead
Local Hebrew 5.9- TR

Tuesday (Cliffs of Insanity and Far East)
Little Sprout 5.6 Lead
Fesic 5 .6 Lead
Swamp Rat 5.8 TR
Orange Crush 5.9+ with falls TR
Montezuma’s Toe 5.8 TR
Sphagnum Esplanade 5.8 TR

Wednesday
Solid 5.9+ TR with fall
Gimp and Wheezer 5.10a TR (first 5.10a flash outdoors!)
Hassenpfeffer 5.10b TR with falls
Hickadelic Jazzgrass 5.8 TR